Todd A. Kessler & Lorenzo di Bonaventura On Embracing an Epic Scope for a Story of Creation for ‘The New Look’

Going into Apple’s The New Look as blind as possible is the way to go, in my opinion. All I knew was that Ben Mendelsohn played Christian Dior and Juliette Binoched embodied Coco Chanel as World War II was drawing to a close, and I was not prepared for the emotional implications of this drama series. Even if one have a passing history of these two fashion titans, the story that unfolds is not necessarily centered on choices of fabrics or an effective color palette. The New Look is about creation and redemption, and creator Todd A. Kessler and Lorenzo di Bonaventura shine a light on these well-known names like never before.

Not many shows would center their story on the citizens of Europe picking up the pieces after the war ends–it’s almost as if we see the dust literally settling on the streets of Paris. After a short, fashionable prologue, we flash back to that time courtesy of Dior’s memories, as we see Dior concerned over the safety of his sister, Catherine (Maisie Williams), and Chanel being pulled in dangerous activities to find her nephew and protect her name. Many audiences are surprised by how The New Look never shies away from Chanel’s Third Reich cozying, and it’s an indication to us how Kessler, a producer on The Sopranos and co-creator of Bloodline, is never shy about confronting the harshest of truths.

After we discuss selecting this particular time to drop us in, we examine the differences between the public circles of these two designers. Dior is always surrounded by a salon of other prominent men in the industry (Balenciaga, Balmain, and even a young Pierre Cardin) while Chanel almost resists those close relationships. Juliette Binoche is seen in the frame, many times, alone and seemingly content with that independence. Chanel is the only woman designer at the focus of this first season, and we see how Kessler and di Bonaventura highlight her personal struggle of being a woman in the industry.

The New Look is startling look back at a history we think we know. How do we pick up the pieces after the world has seen such ugliness? “The opposite of war isn’t peace,” Jonathan Larson wrote. “It’s creation.”

The New Look is streaming now on Apple TV+.